Thailand’s caddies are one of its unique selling points generally because they work with an easy smile and just like the rest of Thailand’s renowned service industry just want you to enjoy yourself. But we golfers are far more demanding than just requiring a smile, we want Steve Williams on the bag. Therefore, that can’t be where the story ends.

If you have golfed here for many years you will have played with good, less good and somewhat mediocre caddies, generally described as “bag carriers”. To better understand what makes one caddy better than another and the inherent challenges faced in order to create the Williams effect, I spoke with Derek Schade, GM of Chiang Mai Highlands, who launched Chiang Mai Highlands Golf Resort in Northern Thailand and managed 3 golf courses in total.

GA – You launched an entire golfing organisation from nothing, so where exactly do you start when it comes to caddying?

DS – In the case of somewhere like Highlands which is entirely surrounded by rural areas, you are starting very much from scratch. It helps that I can speak fluent Thai so at first I went into the community and spoke to various groups explaining what would take place, the jobs that were on offer and what caddies might earn. Used to back breaking work in the fields, riding around in a cart with people prepared to pay 4,000 baht for hitting a ball with a stick for 4 hours got their attention…there was easy money to be made!

GA – I’m guessing things start slowly then become more involved?

DS – Exactly. Our programme ran in 3 week-long phases. First they needed to understand the language and etiquette of golf; tees, bunkers, greens, other hazards, where to stand on the green, when to talk and when to remain quiet, what the players were aiming to achieve. It was basic understanding when obviously all this was a complete mystery.

Following this we could look at more technical matters such as distances a particular club might travel and the flight of the ball, distances to aim points or trouble, greens and pins. Then how to rake bunkers and repair pitch marks.

Finally it was all about adding value and enabling better scoring on behalf of the customer (player). Take distances to a pin on a par 3: the hole marker will have distances from various coloured tees, perhaps a simple map and of course the flag itself will indicate front/middle/back and that has to be taken into account. The vast majority of caddies would say the distance as they saw it on the marker or score card, but the smart ones could say 150 to the middle but the pin’s at the front so maybe 145 yards. Some could even factor in the wind and the cream of the crop would then be able to club players. The final skill was to learn how to read the greens…an art for the best of us let alone for a Thai girl from a village who one month prior was planting rice.

GA – That’s a lot to learn in 3 weeks given the circumstances.

DS – It was and we were on a deadline to open. Basically, once we were sure the caddies wouldn’t embarrass themselves or the club they were let loose on the course but an attempt was made to put together groups where promising caddies could help the less able. In the end it worked surprisingly well.

GA – Impressive and it explains why some caddies are better than others.

DS – I know it is frustrating to get a caddy less able than another one in the group who is pulling out the right clubs and reading the greens superbly and of course that is reflected in the level of tipping, but I believe they are doing their best and when the course supervisors, the organisation and the caddies gain more experience naturally the abilities across the board rise. We are, of course, always investing in their training and are proud of all that has been achieved.

GA – Thanks Derek, hopefully we’ll all appreciate our caddies even more in the future.

Last Sunday I turned up to play alone at Lam Lukka and was sensibly paired by the starter with 2 Thai gentlemen. After a few polite introductions we completed the first 3 holes and at the first drinks stop started a more involved conversation. This was about the differences between being a member of a club in Thailand versus England where I come from.  First of all I need to say that this is my experience and there are some generalisations, but in the main I believe the following are valid observations.

I have been a member of 5 clubs in England and am a member of 2 here in Thailand. They are very different propositions. The vast majority of clubs in England are member-owned and through their affiliations are subject to the governance of the English Golf Union and its various Associations. There is similar infrastructure in Thailand but understandably not so mature in its development.

An English golf club has a very formal hierarchy with an operational organisation managed by the Club “Secretary” who takes care of the running of the course and its facilities. This is also true of Thailand albeit the post is more practically described as the General Manager, but there the similarities end because this hierarchy is far more evident day to day in England. Because Members are effectively shareholders of the club they participate in the management of the organisation by virtue of a standing Committee which influences rules and guidelines for play, dress codes, social matters, pricing and other matters.  Importantly, two posts on the committee are filled by the Captain and Lady Captain who are voted in by the other Members as their representative for the year and who fulfil an important role which is far more than ceremonial. The reason for these positions originally was because there has been a long tradition of competition in English golf both internally within the club, playing for various trophies, as well as external competition between local and regional clubs in tournaments managed by the various Associations: thus you need a team Captain.

Whilst the position of Captain is quite demanding and expensive because they are expected to participate in all things social as well as playing probably 200 times a year and certainly twice every weekend, there are perks. The Captain will have their annual subscription waived, enjoy a rather prominent car parking position next to the front door of the clubhouse and best of all as far as I was concerned, have absolute right of way on the first tee…they turn up and as a function of courtesy you step aside…wonderful! Not all Captains used that privilege, can’t think why not? Another unusual tradition is that the Captain plays with all prospective new members so it is important to be on your best behaviour that day and create a good impression.

But what of the day to day for us lowly types who seek only to play and not get involved with the organisation, bureaucracy and politics (there was a lot of that going on)? Just like Thailand I tended to play with a regular group of various ages; a common theme being they were very sociable. The difference was I probably met that group because on joining the club the first thing I did was sign up for the inevitable weekend competition. In this way I met people both on the course and afterwards when it was customary to get together in the bar and say hello over a civilised drink. On one occasion this turned out to be an unexpected event when I arrived at the pro shop to pay the competition entrance fee and looking at the list of players the professional told me I was joining “Dennis, who’s out on the practice green”. Dennis turned out to be a very famous TV star who subsequently became a firm friend.

Membership of a golf club is also different in England because there is much more emphasis placed on the wider social side with everyone encouraged to attend the numerous evening functions.  These are important sources of club revenue required for investment and upgrade of the facilities; you didn’t mind because you were spending money on a club you had a stake in. There were no millionaires or large corporations bankrolling the courses because most were created as a local community facility (albeit generally for the better off in society), not as a property development exercise which is common in Thailand.

Although not about membership at all and more about day-to-day play, another significant factor is the weather. Inevitably you’d be glued to Friday’s weather forecast for the weekend. This would dictate the number of layers you had to wear which could be astonishing (you’ve seen the professionals playing in the Open Championship in Hoylake in July)…10 degrees, 30 km/h winds and lashing rain…not exactly Hua Hin? Okay, it didn’t rain every day but looking back it felt like it. Clubs in England do have a drinks stop, but just the one which is generally after 9 holes and rather than an ice cold beer they offered coffee or hot chocolate and a bacon sandwich which was meant to thaw you out (just what was needed I have to admit). No caddies of course, except perhaps at some of the very prestigious courses, which means carry your own clubs or commonly use your own trolley, tend the pins and rake your bunkers.

Do I miss it? Not a bit! Whilst I enjoyed the sense of “belonging” that an English club gave me, the Thailand experience for me is superior. Pretty much guaranteed weather (I’ve been rained off the course only once in 15 years’ playing in Thailand), I play generally better courses and having a caddie to keep me cool, calm and collected has meant that I’m a better player with a lower handicap. Also, because I like joining other groups there have been lots of opportunities to meet people from all over the world.

What’s the downside? You play faster in the UK…to stay warm!

Two things have happened to me in the past several days, neither of them very good and both I regret. First I became frustrated that a Golfasian client wasn’t appreciating Thailand golf for what it is, an overall experience rather than the ultimate golf environment, like say Myrtle Beach in the States. Then stupidly I fell into a very similar trap albeit subtly different, even after 15+ years of playing here and almost 8 living in the country.

The ingredients for the client’s frustration were not getting what was expected in terms of quality of golf, and not being allowed to tee off when they had booked because the course starters wanted to bring groups forward and they had people to fit in.  I can empathise with the frustration but because people who live in glass houses shouldn’t throw stones I’m not going to criticise!  My frustration was far less forgivable and entirely self-inflicted…I became agitated at the level of traffic on my way to the course (it’s my road after all isn’t it??) compounded by the totally unhelpful behaviour of a great number of drivers who made the situation worse than it needed to be (as far as I was concerned), and finally the police-operated traffic lights (don’t even go there).  This didn’t get better when arriving ready for golf in a bad frame of mind already and heading for the 1^st tee I saw a group of 5 golfers ahead of me chatting away merrily with an empty fairway in front of them then, after an age, each “bonked” 2 balls off the tee in various directions and at various distances accompanied by much laughter…these guys didn’t have a care in the world while I was re-living my hour of hell in the car.

Both the client and I have lessons to learn. In terms of Thailand’s golf offering this blog aims to provide a wider perspective on golf in Thailand, espousing how wonderful it is, yet it also tries to educate all those who care to visit about the vagaries of the experience.  I’ll aim to do a bit of this now.

So let’s lay it on the line…there are some generally accepted great courses here (I’m thinking Alpine Bangkok/Nikanti {?}/Amata Springs/Black Mountain/Banyan/Siam Plantation amongst others), some excellent ones (Chiang Mai Highlands/Thai Country Club/Springfield/Santiburi {both of them}/Red Mountain), a huge selection of decent ones and a plethora of also-rans. What puts them in the latter category: generally they are let down by sub-standard conditioning of playing areas throughout and if that’s the case they are probably badly managed in all sorts of ways and also lack investment for all sorts of reasons?  However, the Pete Dye designed course in Thailand is rarely going to be of the standard of its US counterpart but its genetics are the same. The lesson here is, if you want US-style conditioning you are going to pay for it and even then it isn’t guaranteed; rather bizarrely I have played Alpine when it was immaculate and again when it was very “scruffy” and that’s being kind. Actually the real lesson is, if you want US-standard conditioning play in the US.

The advice here is look beyond the greens that aren’t running at 11 on the stimp metre and bunkers that have unseemly grass sprouting from their edges (check out Whistling Straits at the PGA Championship this weekend) and appreciate that you’ve paid a fair fee, can still hit the ball well and can very definitely have a good time, which is what it’s all about (see my other blog Pattaya Golf – Take the Rough with the Smooth).

On to the so called “contract” you think you’ve made with Thailand golf.  I have a reality check…the starter, if the course has one, generally isn’t really a starter (there are exceptions) and doesn’t have your exclusive rights in mind…that also applies to marshalls.  On the subject of 5-balls for instance (I can feel my blood pressure rising!), there are those that are at the golf course to have a convivial time with their friends and that is accommodated in Thailand because Thais “get” that it might be the case rather than we who are insisting on the 3 hour round and sprinting around like possessed maniacs.  As for stupid people like me who let the drive to the course set myself up for a dismal round, bear in mind that most of your fellow road users have never had a driving lesson in their life, many don’t have licences and sensibly the testing system isn’t very taxing to accommodate both anomalies.  Whether that’s a recipe for safe roads is another subject.

So why play here, as my wife reasonably pointed out? Because on the whole it’s great and no matter where you are from there is inconsiderate driving and bad traffic management as well as slow golfers blocking your way. The real question is how one copes with all this bearing in mind almost all of us aren’t getting paid to do this…IT’S A HOBBY as I try to tell myself!!!  My recommendation (I’m speaking to myself of course) is to somehow put everything in context: the traffic, the 5-balls, the course conditioning and realise that the most important thing is to have as good a time as you can which will be born of a slow, smooth swing and a slightly drawn drive that splits the fairway, hopefully followed by lots of similar shots.  In a nutshell, you can’t fight golf and you can’t fight Thailand.

Now I’ll excuse myself and head back to the asylum.

It’s all relative, but we’ve all had that “banner” golf round, when everything clicks…when we’re “in the zone”. It may be scoring less than a hundred for the first time or breaking par, but all of us had to keep going right to the 18^th to reach that milestone, keep the concentration, the rhythm and the focus.

I was engrossed by Eddie Pepperell at the Open Championship on Sunday. One of England’s brightest new talents, he was having a fabulous day, remorselessly chasing down the leader’s score of -10, “peppering” the pin and rolling in everything he looked at.  He reached the 17^th tee having just had yet another birdie and now tied for the lead; so far a blemish-free round. Admittedly, the famous St Andrews 17^th, the Road Hole, is one of the most fearsome holes in golf, but to these guys the drive isn’t that challenging, albeit requiring about a 300 yard blow there is lots of room both right and especially left where most bale out.  Clearly, Eddie suddenly felt he was bullet-proof and picturing a birdie even here taking the lead on his own, he lashed at the driver, came out of the shot and sprayed it right into the grounds of the St Andrews hotel and out of bounds. To my mind, he didn’t put the shot in perspective, recognise the danger or just take stock…he was “pumped up” having tied the lead.

The point is, we are all subject to the same thing, losing focus. Pepperell wasn’t under pressure, he just let adrenalin take over and didn’t take a moment to consider that this was an important shot in his round which required his full attention.  The lesson for all of us, whether a par at 18 is required to break 90 or holing a six footer means we shoot 68, is we need to continue what has been a fabulous day’s golf by staying in the moment as much as possible and not get carried away. Probably it will be nerves that we have to deal with, but whatever it is, we must find a way to continue our momentum and go back to basics with our pre-shot routine and good fundamentals; that’s what got us to this position, this moment of glory. Good luck, and reach that milestone!

By Ian Morgan –  Golfasian’s Hua Hin & Phuket Manager

Having played golf all around Thailand over the last 11 years, there are very few areas I haven’t seen. So living in Hua Hin it’s amazing I have never taken the road north to look at Kanchanaburi and the surrounding area. The main attraction was to see Grand Prix Golf Club which so many of my friends have talked about; surely it wouldn’t be as good as they said? On this occasion my journey started in Bangkok and I decided to play a new course called Nikanti on the way to Kanchanaburi. Only 6 months old, it was in immaculate condition and a very unusual concept of six par 3s, six par 4s and six par 5s. A really enjoyable experience and it’s one of those courses that makes you want to go back.

So on to the Grand Prix Hotel before playing the new course. The views, the condition and the whole set up was wonderful and certainly in the top six courses I have played in Thailand. No expense has been spared to make this one of great golfing experiences in Thailand. After golf I was lucky to be invited to lunch by the owner Dr Prasad whose dream to build something special has come true. Sad to leave this set up, but it’s a 40 minute drive south to the Ancient Town of Kanchanaburi and the famous River Kwai. The scenery in this area is magnificent and I am surprised by the quality of the courses and the amazing value. My favourite was Nichigo, a picturesque parkland-style course on the banks of the River Kwai. Wonderful views from all three nines, and looking around made me feel like I was in the mountains and rolling hills of Chiang Mai. Evergreen Hills Golf Club was another good golfing experience and again some wonderful scenery, but beware they do allow 6-balls, so it could be a slow round.

So back to Hua Hin, and I decided to play Royal Ratchaburi to break the journey on the way back home; this was a truly Thai Experience. Not much English spoken in these parts, but I loved the old style course and to see the monkeys running down the fairways was an unusual experience.

Overall I was expecting Kanchanaburi to be a little run down and the courses not in good shape, but apart from Mission Hills the courses were in excellent condition and for those golfers looking for a different, typically Thai experience….try it!. Not just for golf either, and although I didn’t have time on this trip there is so much to see. The River Kwai Bridge, Hellfire Pass & the Memorial Museum, Death Railway and the Erawan National Park with its famous waterfall to name just a few things worth seeing here.

You won’t be disappointed and I will be returning very soon.

I can’t remember when I lost my first tee traumas. I remember having them; feeling super conscious about people watching and living in fear of a top, shank, massive slice (probably) or a huge pull. But they’ve gone, not because I’m a superb golfer but rather I have definitely gained in confidence since those days and as a single figure player I’m not supposed to have traumas…nerves maybe but not traumas. Importantly, I have also conditioned myself to be more positive in my approach to any shot, particularly that of the opening one.

Nevertheless, things aren’t that straightforward and with all the positivity in the world some shots are more intimidating than others.  In general terms I’d rather not have a long par 3 to start with simply because long irons are the weakest part of my game and there just seems to be less margin for error and more likelihood of a bogey which isn’t the ideal start; plus my short game needs “warming up” as it’s the second weakest part of my game!  When I asked colleagues at Golfasian there was definitely a theme…water left and right of the landing area are a big psychological issue no matter how generous the fairway, particularly with a strong crosswind, although a long water carry off the tee wasn’t worrisome and personally I’d rather grip it and rip it anyway.  Let’s look at some examples and perhaps you can post some of your own.

Alpine (Bangkok) 1^st

About 400 yards this isn’t a straightforward opener. Rolling hillocks left and right, water to the right and well placed bunkers all command your attention. You need to stay just right of the centre fairway and get the ball out there at least 250 yards to launch your day in the best possible way. Easy as that?

Royal Golf Lat Krabang 1^st

Why is this tough? Because a fade is a no-no and almost always goes in the water if the shot is over 220 yards. Easy for you natural drawers of the ball but I have to work at it and the first tee isn’t where I want to start. Trees immediately left block starting things out there so basically it’s a draw or very straight hit…terrific.

Pattana 1^st

Water left and right with a tight-ish fairway; take a look at the picture for goodness sake. Brings me out in sweats.

Red Mountain 1^st

It’s like a cobra; beautiful and deadly with jagged hills left and right. The fairway pinches in at a crest with lots of danger lurking beyond that’s all blind. First time there and you are relying on your caddy’s words of wisdom and a very smooth straight shot.

Banyan 1^st

This picture is taken from above the the fairway looking up towards the green; much easier from here. You tee off from 240 yards directly right of here. You can see the lake at the corner on the right and everything slopes down towards it so basically it’s a magnet. In truth a well-placed iron would do the job but likely leave a long shot into the green. Hit something long and the fairway shrinks to nothing. I like a 3 wood left centre and let the slope feed the ball towards the corner. Be confident and it isn’t that hard but who’s confident on the 1^st?

Got any to add?

Every commercial organisation is looking for an edge, something different, unique; golf tourism is no different. The stock formula has worked for decades because the market has very identifiable requirements with a few adjustments around the fringes, namely the location, style and class of the offering which therefore dictates the price.

Historically, the USA and likes of Spain/Portugal have dominated as preferred golf holiday destinations with the UK close behind due to its association with the history of the game.  If it wasn’t treading the links in the footsteps of Old Tom Morris you were after, like as not in Europe the lure would be great weather which is what every golfer craves; helps the feeling of well-being and soothes the aches and pains which all lead to a smoother swing and a better score…at least that’s what we all believe.  This accounts for Carolina and Florida as the most prolific USA golf destinations. Add to great weather a Jack Niklaus (or other named) masterpiece in excellent condition and the stage is set perfectly. The only remaining item essential to all holidays is good accommodation perhaps by the sea or another exotic location with great views, and the easy availability of wonderful food and drink.  Make it all appear tremendous value and you have a recipe for success, something not lost on the industry’s leaders.

Thankfully, due to cultural differences Asia provides some of those special details which make a great deal of difference, namely a natural inclination to make customers happy by providing superb service, particularly true of Thailand the Land of Smiles. One of their secret weapons is the female caddy who can turn a bad day of golf into a bearable, even pleasant one.

When Asia appeared on the scene (excluding Japan which is parochial and a separate case) the opportunity was there to innovate but to a degree the advice given, mostly by western consultants, was do it like us but a bit better, but more extravagant (aided by the global shift in economic influence and power, hence money). This was as a result of an industry ruled to a large degree by conservatism. Signs of this abound, you only have to take a look at Mission Hills in China to see it is all about grandeur, famous names and a heritage from the last 20-40 years. Naturally the facilities are extravagant, quite superb, but is it innovative or just a good idea scaled up?

The good news is that golf tour operators were prepared to explore different ways of doing things and signs of golf tourism innovation are manifest in Thailand courtesy of a collaboration between the Bangkok-based inbound golf tourism operator Golfasian and Australia’s Go Golfing. Go Golfing pioneered the concept of full-blown amateur tournament golf managed along professional lines (Tournament Director/Official scoring etc) for golfers over the age of 35 of all abilities who want the holiday experience but aren’t averse to a bit of excitement while on the golf course; the formula is proving popular. There are several key components to the golf: don’t play medal golf but rather a points system (in this case stableford, widely used in Australia) which keeps pace of play acceptable and create several “divisions” based on age, gender and handicap so everyone plays in groups of a similar standard and age plus has the opportunity to compete for what can be extravagant prizes. Importantly, stay at great hotels and finally make sure there is plenty of socialising at the end of every day so people can meet and greet, the holiday atmosphere is maintained and things aren’t taken too seriously.  

The first example of such a tournament in Asia was the Centara World Masters played in Hua Hin last June which attracted 500 competitors from 23 countries. Chosen for its royal seaside resort credentials and access to superb golf, in particular the award winning Banyan and Black Mountain, it was an instant hit. Feedback was extremely positive, immediately afterwards competitors were asking when the next event would take place. This winning formula was not lost upon the organisers and the 2015 Centara World Masters will again be staged in Hua Hin 15-19 June. This year over 600 participants are expected and the prize fund is now over $70,000. A similar tournament is scheduled for Vietnam in September.

Thailand is a truly bad choice for your next golf holiday destination. Here’s why.

Note: Please don’t tell your friends.

1) The golf courses in the north of the country are plain ugly:

Alpine Golf Resort in Chiang Mai

2) …and in the center:

Thai Country Club in Bangkok

3) …as well as in the south:

Mission Hills Phuket

4) The Thai caddies don’t know how to smile:

5) It’s almost impossible to find a massage or spa:

6) Nightlife is non-existent:

7) Nor are there any nice rooftop bars:

Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar in Bangkok

8) The hotels are uncomfortable at best:

Rest Details Hotel Hua Hin

9) The beaches are a joke:

10) And as we all already know, the food is just disgusting:

Now, you hopefully have a good idea as to why you should (not) book your next golf holiday to Thailand!